Interior Construction


The construction of the interior started as soon as the hull was rolled over and the bilges painted. It was intertwined with the completion of the shell as some of the external paintwork could not be undertaken in winter due to low ambient temperatures and, in all cases, it is good to have more than one front open on such jobs. Sourcing materials required in one area can be done while effectively working elsewhere.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 25A - Companionway

Building the companionway area was a welcome priority. The engine had just been installed, but could have waited until very late in the build with benefit: a near straight vertical lift through the sliding hatch is possible at any time.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 25C - Galley area

Starting the galley area. The cut-out for the gimballed stove will be finalised in place. The most effective way of cutting neatly through foam-core panels is using a jigsaw with a fine-toothed metal blade. The glass laminate takes its edge off immediately, but a single blade lasted through the entire build.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 35 - Before insulation

Sandwich panels that were to be tied into the framing were manufactured and bonded into place.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 26 - Saloon starboard settee & chart table

The starboard saloon side started. Note the painted hull plating in the bottom.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 27 - View forward from port aft cabin

Construction of additional items not in contact with the hull plating was also undertaken.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 36 - Conduits before insulation

Conduit was installed to carry some of the wiring into hard to reach locations.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 37 - Saloon tranformed into a snow cave

Spraying two-part expanding closed-cell urethane foam to cover the hull plating and framing from the waterline up made a horrific mess of the tidy interior, turning the place into a snow cave.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 37A - Untrimmed foam insulation in starboard aft cabin 2

Digging a way out of there was the appropriate way of looking at it. The foam was progressively trimmed, faired and lightly fibreglassed throughout to form a lining. The best way to attack the foam is using a twist-knot cup wire brush on an angle grinder.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 37B - Fibreglass lining around hatch frame 2

The evil task of shaping and glassing the foam did allow obtaining any shape very easily.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 38 - Building saloon starboard seat

Steady progress was made assembling the interior from composite panels. The use of PVC foam core/E-Glass results in a very light and strong fit-out, but is more costly and labour intensive. The gains in vessel displacement are significant however.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 41 - Building saloon port seat back rest 1

Each piece was produced in the workshop on a flat table. Warped composite panels do stay warped.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 42 - Chart table area under construction

The chart table area with a fuel tank in place. Fuel can also be carried in the keel foil, but gravity-feeding the engine makes for a more reliable and dependable installation.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 43 - Starboard saloon under construction

Building up into the hull sides. An accurate construction plan for everything means no time was spent wondering about the layout and hull volume was utilised efficiently.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 44 - Port saloon L-settee

The port side taking shape.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 45 - Starboard aft cabin

Aft cabin with bunk base. The aft panel seals the lazarette.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 46 - Galley with stove and sink area

The gimballed stove being fitted in the galley. One shall preferably refrain from cooking the thinners.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 48 - Standing at the sink

Builder standing at the sink late one night – now looking older. Note the inside of the lockers now flow-coated white. At this point, even without deck hatches, the 500-watt floodlight was able to heat the interior noticeably in winter.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 49 - Sink and stove

Galley with stove and sink. The sink was custom-made out of fibreglass on a mould to obtain a shape that always drains fully, even heeled.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 50 - Chart table & seat

Fairing of the glasswork inside was not too onerous.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 51 - Saloon starboard

A little filling and sanding, basically.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 52 - Saloon desk

Just a little more…

Nordkyn Interior Construction 52A - Starboard arrangements

And some more again, but with the locker doors in place now. All the cut-out pieces were marked and saved. Fitting piano hinges to composite panels is one of my favourite tasks. There were forty-seven of them throughout.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 52B - Touching up fairing fwd stbd

Only a little more in the forepeak. Having a workbench in an ocean-cruising yacht is great and the forepeak is no place for sleeping quarters.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 60 - Saloon startboard side before topcoat

Epoxy undercoat… sprayed and then finely sanded. A good ducted extraction fan is essential for spraying inside.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 60A - Saloon port after unmasking

And two-pack semi-matt polyurethane topcoat: one 18-hour shift with the spray gun, forepeak excluded. It is a matter of strategy to progress from the far surfaces towards the centre, apply two coats everywhere and leave the scene unnoticed: without dragging the air hose onto anything freshly painted.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 69 - Bilge pump & hoses

Plumbing work started. One foot pump for fresh water and one for sea water at the galley: simplicity, dependability and effectiveness.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 70 - Galley with locker doors

Doors and catches were fitted. The stove is there to stay this time and now I could even make a cup of tea on board.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 72 - Progressing the interior

Table tops were covered with veneers and varnished with two-pack polyurethane. A false panel at the chart table will provide space for wiring behind.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 81 - Aft cabin doorway trim

Change of trade: hardwood trims were machined, epoxy-glued into place and later varnished.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 82 - Saloon table top

The saloon table top under construction. The base panel is foam core and fiberglass for lightness, but will look like solid timber once finished. The corner pieces were all turned on a lathe.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 85 - Routed handrail

Extensive use was made of a powerful router and jigs for the woodwork. I like wood dust just slightly less than filler dust: very little. I find hardwood dust – in particular – to be a more effective irritant.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 83 - Saloon table grab rail

Grab rail along the saloon table.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 84 - Saloon handrail

More wooden handrails… those were curved and marked in place.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 85A - Saloon table

Finished saloon table. The composite floorboards also made a welcome difference inside.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 85B - Window frame & grab rail

Finished handrail and window trim. All roof windows were double-glazed. The hard, washable, textured finish on the deck head was achieved using a thick industrial epoxy coating and a simple roller.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 93 - Saloon with finished floorboards

Finished composite floorboards: a synthetic non-slip flooring material rated for use in hospital showers was used. Note the cabin diesel heater under construction, the outer heatshield is still missing.

Home-made diesel heater using a vapourising burner

The cabin heater, finished here, was specially conceived to operate in the insulated volume of the boat. It features a smaller burner and higher efficiency than commercial models, leading to lower consumption. Most of the heat generated flows out of the gap between the fire box and the heatshield as hot air, rather than radiating from dangerously hot surfaces.

Nordkyn Interior Construction 92A - Aft cabins foam lining

The aft cabins lining was doubled with thick EVA foam sheet glued in and later covered with a synthetic carpet.

Some engineering tasks were also documented, as well as the project completion.

  to “Interior Construction”

  1. Hi Eric,
    Are the water tanks under the saloon settees or have you managed to find some ingenious way to store water(fresh of course!) in the bilge. Do you use any of the bilge for storage? And what is hidden under the saloon table?

    In another post you claim that much so-called naval architecture is actually more interior design than external hull shape and while you have obviously taken great pains with the latter, you seem also to have paid a great deal of attention to what is – or perhaps isn’t – inside.

    Regards – Peter

    • Peter,

      Answering several questions in one go (!), the water tank is in the lower part of the table base, which is made out of 20mm PVC foam core and E-Glass/epoxy inside. It is subdivided into two independent tanks of 75L each and three valves in a U-shaped arrangement allow to couple the tanks or feed the front of the boat separately from the galley etc.
      If I want to carry more water, I fit it in 10L square plastic jerrycans in the bilges (which are around 300mm deep around the keel). I always make a very liberal use of seawater on board and an average of 2L/person/day is ample for freshwater.

      Carrying drinking water in aluminium tanks is not great. Fresh tank water on board is semi-stagnant, doesn’t have a great oxygen content and the metal doesn’t like it that much after a while. Stainless steel is a much better choice for a metal fresh water tank, but it would have made no sense here as the foam core construction already offered the perfect tank material.
      Building fresh water tanks directly into the hull would have been even worse in the sense that now a critical part of the boat would have become very difficult to access and exposed to degradation on the long run. Fuel, on the other hand, is fine straight into the hull provided the tank outlet is at the lowest point (no accumulation of nasty substances), but even then I opted for an independent welded alloy tank. I can fill the keel foil with diesel however, something intended for wintering over in very cold places.

      I have paid a great deal of attention inside to ensure there weren’t multiple heads, more bunks than I could ever possibly use, wide open spaces to fall across with little to hang on to, little volume for storage, storage in the wrong places (i.e. huge cockpit lockers), a chart table that can’t take a chart, little screens everywhere… what else? Just about every must have “feature” found these days. This way I got a modern high-performance boat with sensible arrangements and simple functional systems.



  2. Hi Eric,
    Did you peel ply/vacuum-bag entire composite panels or simply roller epoxy into the roving and fill it after, before cutting them into parts and can you reveal the reason for the use of the brown(mostly vertical) panels and the green (mostly horizontal) panels?

    Also, what sort of weight-saving did you achieve using composite panels instead of ply?

    Thanks – Peter

  3. Peter,

    When I started, I was able to source Klegecell PVC core, which was brown. Later, the supplier only stocked the higher grade green Divinycell.

    I cut the foam to shape first and checked the fit in the boat, then glassed both sides of the panels on a large flat table. The best tool for working the resin on flat surfaces is simply a large putty knife. Rollers are slow, messy and difficult to clean afterwards. The pressure from a flat blade lets you press the glass down onto the resin and it gives a strong, resin-lean laminate.
    Each panel was then glued into place and only the corners were shaped and glassed in place.

    I saved hundreds of kilograms when compared to a marine plywood fit-out. The fit-out is one of the few places where you can really save substantial amounts of weight. Building light is more labour-intensive and more costly, but you benefit from it forever after.
    There is a very light marine plywood called Goldcore Light you can get now. It is not as light as a foam core panel, but it is way ahead of the traditional marine ply as far as weight goes.



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